A piece of reportage in the current issue of Granta, a magazine of new writing. It is about Ukraine and Crimea, and the author’s travels in those places.

This kind of writing gives an impression of a place that is far more complete than what one can get from reading the news. These places are in real trouble, feeling the hot breath of Russia on their necks, which is welcomed by some and resented by others. They are divided places and this piece draws that out in a series of well-crafted vignettes.